Fashion : The 20th Century

by
Edition: Revised
Format: Trade Paper
Pub. Date: 1999-11-13
Publisher(s): Universe
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Summary

A fashion statement itself about the period it covers, Fashion: The 20th Century profiles and celebrates in photos all of the preeminent fashion designers and the clothing they have created, from the rise of Chanel in the 1920's to Christian Dior's postwar "New Look," to the age of Versace and his fin de siécle contemporaries. In addition, this illuminating volume traces fashion's other driving forces-- the key figures, corporations, stores, newspapers, and fashion magazines and their influences.

A comprehensive, visual sourcebook for anyone interested in fashion, this chic paperback book is a compact and stylish addition any coffee table or bookshelf.

François Baudot is one of France's leading writers on fashion and style. The author of several books on fashion, including Chanel and Alaïa in the Universe of Fashion series. Baudot is also a regular contributor to Elle and Elle Décoration.

Featured designers include Chanel, Nina Ricci, Charles James, Grés, Pierre Cardin, Armani, Gucci, Prada, and many more.

Table of Contents

Foreword 8(3)
Introduction 11(18)
Chapter 1 1900-1960
29(156)
The Belle Epoque 1900-1914
30(30)
Historical Review
30(6)
Jacques Doucet
36(4)
Paul Poiret
40(6)
Mariano Fortuny
46(4)
And Also: Redfern, Creed, Paquin, Cheruit, Callot Soeurs, Margaine-Lacroix, Drecoll, Lewis, Legroux and others
50(4)
People
54(2)
Menswear
56(4)
The First World War 1914-1918
60(2)
Between the Wars 1919-1939
62(44)
Historical Review
62(4)
Jeanne Lanvin
66(4)
Jean Patou
70(2)
Sportswear
72(2)
Gabrielle Chanel
74(6)
Jewelry
80(2)
Madeleine Vionnet
82(4)
Lucien Lelong
86(2)
Elsa Schiaparelli
88(4)
And Also: Mainbocher, Molyneux, Ricci, Revillon, Valentina, Irfe, the parfumeurs, Reboux, Perugia, Ferragamo and others
92(8)
People
100(2)
Menswear
102(2)
The Influence of American Film
104(2)
The Second World War 1939-1945
106(30)
Historical Review
106(8)
The Reign of the Milliners
114(2)
Gres
116(2)
Charles James
118(4)
American Ready-to-Wear
122(4)
Claire McCardell
126(2)
Menswear
128(2)
Liberation
130(2)
Jacques Fath
132(4)
The Theatre of Fashion
136(4)
The Fifties
140(45)
Historical Review
140(4)
Christian Dior
144(6)
Pierre Balmain and Norman Norell
150(2)
Roger Vivier
152(2)
Balenciaga
154(6)
Givenchy
160(2)
The Return of Chanel
162(2)
And Also: Guy Laroche, Jacques Griffe, Jean Desses, Carven, Line Vautrin, Lola Prusac, Jacques Esterel and others
164(4)
People
168(2)
From Couture to Mass Manufacturing
170(4)
Lempereur and the Pioneer Stylists
174(4)
Pierre Cardin
178(4)
Menswear
182(3)
Chapter 2 1960-2000
185(192)
The Sixties
186(38)
Historical Review
186(6)
Yves Saint Laurent
192(4)
Andre Courreges
196(2)
Paco Rabanne
198(2)
Emilio Pucci and Rudi Gernreich
200(2)
And Also: Louis Feraud, Ted Lapidus, Torrente, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Lesage, Emanuel Ungaro, Oleg Cassini, Anne Klein, Pauline Trigere, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo, Valentino, Simonetta, Capucci and others
202(6)
Swinging London
208(2)
The Empire of Style: Maime Arnodin and Denise Fayolle, Emmanuelle Khanh, Christiane Bailly, Cacharel, Dorothee Bis, Michele Rosier, Prisunic and others
210(8)
People
218(2)
Menswear
220(4)
Street Fashion and Anti-Fashion 1968-1972
224(10)
Anti-Fashion Becomes Big Business
232(2)
The Seventies
234(42)
Historical Review
234(4)
France: Marc Bohan, Sonia Rykiel, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo, Issey Miyake and others
238(10)
London: Mr Freedom, Ossie Clark, Zandra Rhodes and Anthony Price
248(2)
Italy: Capucci, Mila Schon, Krizia, Cerruti, Gianfranco Ferre, Giorgio Armani, Walter Albini, Laura Biagiotti, Missoni and others
250(8)
United States: Bill Blass, John Anthony, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Adolfo, Stephen Burrows, James Galanos and others
258(8)
Basics
266(2)
Agnes B.
268(2)
People
270(2)
Menswear
272(4)
The Eighties
276(40)
Historical Review
276(6)
Azzedine Alaia
282(4)
Thierry Mugler
286(2)
Stephen Jones and Claude Montana
288(2)
Jean-Paul Gaultier
290(2)
Giorgio Armani
292(2)
Ralph Lauren
294(2)
Manolo Blahnik and Adidas
296(2)
Zoran and Lagerfeld at Chanel
298(4)
Sybilla and Romeo Gigli
302(2)
Christian Lacroix
304(2)
Marithe & Francois Girbaud and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
306(2)
And Also: Myrene de Premonville, Michel Klein, Chantal Thomass, Guy Paulin, Anne-Marie Beretta, Marc Audibet, Jean-Remy Daumas, Jean Colonna, Kansai Yamamoto, Junko Koshino, Junko Shimada, Walter Steiger, Carolina Herrera, Carolyne Roehm, Perry Ellis, Isaac Mizrahi and others
308(5)
The Japanese Phenomenon
313(1)
People
314(2)
The Nineties
316(61)
Historical Review
316(6)
Yohji Yamamoto
322(2)
Gianni Versace
324(2)
Comme des Garcons
326(2)
Martine Sitbon
328(2)
Vivienne Westwood
330(2)
Gucci
332(2)
Prada
334(2)
The Life of a De-Luxe Label: Hermes, Celine, Vuitton, Trussardi, Loewe and others
336(4)
Jil Sander and Martin Margiela
340(2)
Paul Smith, Philip Treacy and Patrick Cox
342(2)
Helmut Lang and Dolce & Gabbana
344(2)
Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors
346(2)
Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester
348(2)
John Galliano and Alexander McQueen
350(2)
Dior and Givenchy
352(2)
Gianfranco Ferre and Alberta Ferretti
354(2)
Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier
356(2)
Adeline Andre and Chanel
358(2)
Walter Van Beirendonck and Rifat Ozbek
360(2)
Donna Karan and Gap
362(2)
Calvin Klein
364(2)
And Also: Thimister, Ocimar Versolato, Christophe Rouxel, Dominique Sirop, Narciso Rodriguez, Cristina Ortiz, Stella McCartney, Alber Elbaz, Isabel Marant, Todd Oldham, Dirk Bikkembergs, Nike and Others
366(6)
The Future
372(2)
People
374(3)
Conclusion 377(8)
Bibliography 385(5)
Picture Credits 390(4)
Acknowledgments 394(2)
Index 396

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