Yankee Rock & Ice A History of Climbing in the Northeastern United States
by Waterman, Laura; Waterman, GuyFormat: Paperback
Pub. Date: 2001-12-01
Publisher(s): Stackpole Books
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Summary
Celebrated climbers Guy and Laura Waterman trace the growth of this popular sport by focusing on the first ascents of classic routes and the climbers who made them legendary: John Case on the Adirondacks' Indian Head and Wallface; Robert Underhill and Lincoln O'Brien on Cannon; Fritz Wiessner on Breakneck Ridge. More contemporary climbers Jim McCarthy, Henry Barber, Lynn Hill, and Hugh Herr are described in full detail. Ethics and style, the evolution of ice climbing, the changing role of women in climbing, and developments in technique and equipment are explored.
Table of Contents
| Preface | p. v |
| Acknowledgments | p. ix |
| Introduction | p. xv |
| The Prehistory of Northeastern Climbing: Before 1916 | p. 1 |
| A New Form of Exploration: 1916-1927 | p. 15 |
| The Classic Routes: 1928-1933 | p. 27 |
| It's a Grand Old Flagg | p. 41 |
| Mountaincraft: Ethics and Style in Prewar Climbing | p. 53 |
| The First Ice Age: Before 1927 | p. 65 |
| Huntington Ravine: 1928-1945 | p. 74 |
| Anniversary Waltz in Pinnacle Gully | p. 87 |
| Fritz Wiessner | p. 94 |
| Rock Climbing for Fun: 1934-1945 | p. 102 |
| The Gunks Discovered: 1935-1945 | p. 117 |
| World War II as a Watershed in Northeastern Climbing History | p. 126 |
| The Conservative Tradition--Rock: The 1950s and 1960s | p. 133 |
| The Conservative Tradition--Ice: The 1950s and 1960s | p. 148 |
| Young Turks, Old Bootleggers, Vulgarians, and a Boston Tea Party | p. 154 |
| Chasing Ghosts on the Armadillo | p. 164 |
| Breakthrough on Rock: 1957-1966 | p. 170 |
| On Beyond 5.10: 1967-1973 | p. 181 |
| Clean Climbing | p. 193 |
| The Rack and the Theory of the Expanding Universe | p. 201 |
| Quiet in the North Country: Before 1970 | p. 205 |
| Streibert and Barber | p. 216 |
| North Conway Renaissance: 1970-1979 | p. 226 |
| Higher Standards throughout the Northeast: The 1970s | p. 240 |
| The Many Faces of Group Dynamics | p. 250 |
| Revolution on Ice: 1969-1976 | p. 253 |
| Emergence of Climbing as a Popular Sport | p. 269 |
| Restoring Parity: The Reemergence of Women in the 1980s | p. 282 |
| Can Women Lead on Ice? | p. 291 |
| 5.13 and Beyond | p. 295 |
| Lake Willough by and the Quandary of Northeastern Ice during the 1980s | p. 303 |
| Education in Verticality--a Short Comedy or Farce in Four Scenes | p. 314 |
| Climbing at the Crossroads: Ethics and Style Questions for the 1990s | p. 318 |
| Index | p. 325 |
| Table of Contents provided by Syndetics. All Rights Reserved. |
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